With North Africa as inspiration, Zuhair Murad worked traditional carpet patterns into richly colored jacquards and hand-beaded jackets — using them to bring a new flavor to his world of decadent sensuality.
“I like in every collection to search for a theme and to let people dream, and enter the dream somehow,” Murad said before the show. His North African jaunt, which he called “Mirages et Oasis,” came in deep reds and purples, infused with Lurex, as well as some jazzy, solid-gold statement numbers. Last season’s pleated pastel rainbow dress — worn by Chiara Ferragni last week in an Instagram post that garnered more than 500,000 likes — came in gold renditions, one with a muted leopard print and embellished with sequins, and another with an iridescent sheen and a matching cape that billowed out behind.
Also in the heart-stopping category: a fiery orange chiffon dress with puffs of feathers lining the cape — the airy gown flowing from a tightly wrapped bustier.
Murad keeps it all highly elevated, yet he relishes contradictions. Here, he used velvet as a contrast to the shimmery and beaded sides of the collection, lending a quiet softness to the high volume lineup.
New this season: fabric headbands. Murad was hankering after a bohemian streak from the Seventies.
“I loved the idea to do this headband, it reminds me of Saint Laurent, of many celebrities from the Seventies, they used to put the headband with messy hair, it’s so cool, I think,” he said with a chuckle.